Fiona I am so here for your language learning and paella eating adventure! Savour every moment and oof, winter sunshine yes please! You will no doubt eat fideuà at some point , cooked like paella but they're noodles https://www.instagram.com/p/BLOGQwhB2be/
Here are some things I learnt about paella from a work trip many yeaes ago:
👉 paella is not eaten at dinner, only at lunch. And most often on a Sunday
👉 meat and seafood is never mixed
👉 the traditional Valencian paella recipe is with rabbit, chicken and veg
👉 it should be cooked in a thin layer so you get crispy bits stuck round the edges and to the bottom. It should not be deep filled!
👉 diners should eat straight from the paella pan, rather than serving up onto plates
👉 paella comes for a minimum of two people, as it's too difficult to authentically cook the small amount of rice for just one person
👉 it should be cooked over wood from orange trees, but in city restaurants you'll mostly find gas cookers
Palace Fesol came highly recommend but Restaurant Barracca was particularly special, just outside the city. Some more info here:
Great checklist, Leyla, thanks! I knew about the Sunday lunch thing, the meat or fish and the desirability of crispy bits but not about eating straight from the pan. I wondered why my hosts were doing that! I've had fideua in Malaga but not here yet but will look out for it!
Thank you for that postcard. A really nice read and wonderful that while our everyday lives continue here - tax returns, juggling life and worries and counteracting them with a glass of something... we can live a trip away vicariously through you. Keep it up and keep us remotely travelling.
I’ve been lucky enough to go to Valencia twice, once in May when we did the usual touristy things and once in March for las Fajas - an amazing week long festival part religious and part folklore/ giant model building in which the whole city and outlying areas take part. Pretty sure your school will tell you about it but if they don’t definitely ask.
Yes, that’s very likely. It’s the most amazing operation with over 400 groups taking part all dressed in the most elaborate costumes accompanied by bands to which they dance. It takes several days for them all to progress to the cathedral where they build a huge Madonna out of the flowers carried there in the processions. At the same time they build tableau in extruded foam all round the city with various themes for which prizes are given. There’s a museum of the best ones from every year.
It is pretty mad but a lot of fun. Oh yes and they have fireworks every day in the main square as well as fireworks at night. It’s quite crowded but somehow the city manages to absorb all of the extra people.
Have heard the Mercat de Colon is great too. It's a bit nippy in the morning but can be quite warm as the sun comes up later in the day so a coat or jacket you can carry around I suggest!
What a great post. Made me hungry and thirsty and missing old Spain. Only passed through Valencia by train enroute to Granada but do love that gorgeous coast, and Spain in general. Disfrutas!
How lovely to be in Valencia! I’m sure Casa Montaña is already on your list - https://www.emilianobodega.com - I’ve been going there for 25 years for the food, the wine, the knowledgeable staff and the fun and it’s right up your street. Say hi to Alejandro if you go. He’s the son of Emiliano Garcia, who relaunched the traditional bodega as a gastropub in the 1990s - one of the first in Spain and still the best in my opinion. Tapas are traditional Valencian and Spanish but made with the best ingredients and care.
I enjoyed this so much, Fiona. Thank you for gifting us all your postcard. I have a good friend who is in Valencia for 3 months (from Canada) and I’ve forwarded your wonderful post to her as she’s just starting her stay there. TY! 🩶
Not done Valencia but done a fair bit of Spain of late. Loved San Sebastián and Bilbao. Wine and coffee is great value although craft beer is UK level.
Fiona I am so here for your language learning and paella eating adventure! Savour every moment and oof, winter sunshine yes please! You will no doubt eat fideuà at some point , cooked like paella but they're noodles https://www.instagram.com/p/BLOGQwhB2be/
Here are some things I learnt about paella from a work trip many yeaes ago:
👉 paella is not eaten at dinner, only at lunch. And most often on a Sunday
👉 meat and seafood is never mixed
👉 the traditional Valencian paella recipe is with rabbit, chicken and veg
👉 it should be cooked in a thin layer so you get crispy bits stuck round the edges and to the bottom. It should not be deep filled!
👉 diners should eat straight from the paella pan, rather than serving up onto plates
👉 paella comes for a minimum of two people, as it's too difficult to authentically cook the small amount of rice for just one person
👉 it should be cooked over wood from orange trees, but in city restaurants you'll mostly find gas cookers
Palace Fesol came highly recommend but Restaurant Barracca was particularly special, just outside the city. Some more info here:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLYgDRkhq0s/
Disfrutaaaaa 🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸
Great checklist, Leyla, thanks! I knew about the Sunday lunch thing, the meat or fish and the desirability of crispy bits but not about eating straight from the pan. I wondered why my hosts were doing that! I've had fideua in Malaga but not here yet but will look out for it!
Great post - learning about and eating paella is one of my hobbies 🇪🇦🇪🇦🇪🇦🍷⛱️🙂
Similar to my experience - plus my work colleagues tested me on my knowledge afterwards 😱
Thank you for that postcard. A really nice read and wonderful that while our everyday lives continue here - tax returns, juggling life and worries and counteracting them with a glass of something... we can live a trip away vicariously through you. Keep it up and keep us remotely travelling.
Will do my best. Feel very lucky to have escaped!
Love Tasca Ángel!
Do you know what lleterola is then?!
Hi Fiona, apparently, it's called mollejas de cordero in Castillan, and it's the thymus gland, something like sweetbreads.
Ah, that figures. That's what they tasted like on reflection. Thanks!
I think it’s lamb sweetbreads, though Indont remember it being ok the menu when so was there. My notes say I ate sardines, sepia, anchovies
The sardines looked particularly good. May have to go back!
2 Estaciones is one of my favorite restaurants in the world.
What language school are you going to, if you don’t mind sharing?
Thanks for the rec. more to follow on the language school!
I’ve been lucky enough to go to Valencia twice, once in May when we did the usual touristy things and once in March for las Fajas - an amazing week long festival part religious and part folklore/ giant model building in which the whole city and outlying areas take part. Pretty sure your school will tell you about it but if they don’t definitely ask.
Have heard it's a pretty epic celebration! There were lots of groups out in costume today so maybe they were rehearsing!
Yes, that’s very likely. It’s the most amazing operation with over 400 groups taking part all dressed in the most elaborate costumes accompanied by bands to which they dance. It takes several days for them all to progress to the cathedral where they build a huge Madonna out of the flowers carried there in the processions. At the same time they build tableau in extruded foam all round the city with various themes for which prizes are given. There’s a museum of the best ones from every year.
Wow! I do and I don't want to be here for that. Have been told by a friend the whole city goes crazy!
It is pretty mad but a lot of fun. Oh yes and they have fireworks every day in the main square as well as fireworks at night. It’s quite crowded but somehow the city manages to absorb all of the extra people.
Spanish people have a great work / life balance. Our neighbors are kind and generous making us very welcome. ♥️🇪🇦🌴
You live here? Lucky you!
Yay! Loved reading this. We're off for a four day break to valencia in a couple of weeks and will check out some of these places.
No idea what to wear...
Looking forward to the central market and also Mercat de Colon
Have heard the Mercat de Colon is great too. It's a bit nippy in the morning but can be quite warm as the sun comes up later in the day so a coat or jacket you can carry around I suggest!
What a great post. Made me hungry and thirsty and missing old Spain. Only passed through Valencia by train enroute to Granada but do love that gorgeous coast, and Spain in general. Disfrutas!
Thanks Jeanine! The more I come to Spain the more I love it!
How lovely to be in Valencia! I’m sure Casa Montaña is already on your list - https://www.emilianobodega.com - I’ve been going there for 25 years for the food, the wine, the knowledgeable staff and the fun and it’s right up your street. Say hi to Alejandro if you go. He’s the son of Emiliano Garcia, who relaunched the traditional bodega as a gastropub in the 1990s - one of the first in Spain and still the best in my opinion. Tapas are traditional Valencian and Spanish but made with the best ingredients and care.
It was on my list but I didn't get round to it. (This time. I'll be back!)
Visited Valencia on wine excursion trip with Joe Wadsack.. and tasted Bobal wines
at Murviedro- Utel-Requena.. good memories!
That must have been fun. Joe’s a legend!
yes it was it was amazing... Bordeaux,
Basque country, Portugal to Valencia.. he is a
a walking encyclopedia. A wine and food crawl through the
best regions .. It was memorable..!!! First time we tried the Bobal grape in Valenc
Interesting post and enjoy your time in Valencia 🇪🇦
Thanks, Stephen!
I enjoyed this so much, Fiona. Thank you for gifting us all your postcard. I have a good friend who is in Valencia for 3 months (from Canada) and I’ve forwarded your wonderful post to her as she’s just starting her stay there. TY! 🩶
Thanks KR! Very envious of the 3 months!
Me too!!!
El Miguelete cathedral tower is great for views over the inner city
Saw people queuing for it today. Will try and take it in - thanks!
Spain....¡Qué maravilla!
Not done Valencia but done a fair bit of Spain of late. Loved San Sebastián and Bilbao. Wine and coffee is great value although craft beer is UK level.
A friendly and welcoming country!
It really is. So much nicer than France these days I’m afraid to say!
yes it was it was amazing... Bordeaux,
Basque country, Portugal to Valencia.. he is a
a walking encyclopedia. A wine and food crawl through the
best regions .. It was memorable..!!! First time we tried the Bobal grape in Valencia.