Postcard from Valencia

In which I try to live like a local ...

Hola! This is a break from the usual routine as I’m in Valencia for two weeks to improve my Spanish. And cos I really appreciate how good it is of you to sign up I’d like to share what I’ve already found out about this lovely city so the post is free for everyone to read.

There will be more updates to follow on my top Valencia recs, how to make a great paella and what I’ve learnt about language learning so do sign up if you’d like those in your inbox.

Choosing Valencia for a winter break wasn’t an accident. I’d had it in mind for a while to go on an immersive language course. Sure, I could perfectly well have done it in London or Madrid but why would you when you could head further south where it’s sunnier, warmer and nearer the sea? I did consider Malaga which I love but I’ve already visited it a couple of times and had never been here.

I arrived on Friday and yesterday set out from the hotel without a plan. The luxury of being somewhere for two weeks is that you don’t feel bound to fit everything in. Actually I’m not sure one shouldn’t approach travel from that point of view anyway.

I could hardly not start at the Central Market though which is about 3 minutes from my hotel. I’d heard it was big but it’s VAST. Goodness knows how many stalls there are. Where are the people to buy all that food? There must be about 20 ham stalls alone.

In case you suddenly feel in urgent need of a ham fix they’re sold in little cones as well as packets of every size. Rather more healthily there’s are cups of fruit too …  

Grabbing a coffee en route (coffee is SO cheap here) I wandered over the former river bed (now a park) that separates the old town from the rest of the city and stumbled across a beautiful garden, the Jardines de Real where I simply sat in the sun for half an hour. Just the ability to do that is so happy-making. Even at this time of year everyone is sitting at tables outdoors 

Round about 2.30pm I began to feel a bit peckish (I would boast I was going native but it was only 1.30pm on my body clock) and headed back towards the centre where I found an oyster bar, Ostras Pedrin I would definitely recommend. The oysters are great and the wine, as you see, starts at 2€ a glass. Later in the day I find that’s not unusual. 

More walking and a bit of shopping including all the things I’d forgotten to bring with me (see below).

In the evening I went to a bar round the corner, Tasca Angel, which had recommended by the hotel. Not a source of advice I would normally take - but by this time I was going with the flow. Basically it’s a bar with a tiny cooking area in the corner - I wouldn’t even call it a kitchen. Most people - mainly locals - stand up against the counter. Great brochettes (above) and something called lleterola I’d have said was chicken but can’t find a translation for. Any of you know?

It was brilliantly cheap but I wouldn’t cross the city for it. There’s a lot to be said for exploring whatever neighbourhood you pitch up in, in my case the Ciutat Vella - old town.

As I’d gone early to Tasca Angel to get in I was out by 8 which seemed indecently early to go back to my hotel so I dropped into another bar, the Café Saint Jaume, to have an Agua Valencia, the city’s signature cocktail for which, bizarrely Tesco has a recipe. It’s basically orange juice, cava, gin and vodka and tastes dangerously innocuous. You get an entire jug to yourself. For €5.50. (I didn’t drink all of it!)

Today has been entirely different - more like my normal working life. I had been introduced to the main citrus supplier for most of the British supermarkets who took me out of town for a real paella. Which in Valencian terms means chicken, rabbit and seasonal vegetables (in this case green beans and artichokes) but not seafood. Or not in the same dish as chicken. More to follow on the subject once I’ve done a bit more ‘research’!

How’s the Spanish going you might wonder? Well the course hasn’t started yet but I’ve managed a few exchanges, most proudly, in a department store. on the size and colour of socks (having forgotten to pack any). 

Frustratingly a lot of the locals just answer in English when I venture my halting Spanish or, presuming that I actually know the language, gabble something I don’t understand in reply. Anyway that’s what I’m here for isn’t it?

Have you been to Valencia? I’d love your favourite places if you have.

School tomorrow 😱 Wish me luck!