Lasagne is a labour of love to make properly - I like the fact that Nigella's recipe in Cook, Eat, Repeat is called 'Lasagne of Love'. The lasagne I hanker after was made by an Italian lady called Evalina, a friend of my family in Tuscany and a great cook - it had several layers of fine fresh pasta (she made her own) interspersed with just enough but not too much tasty ragu and was at once satisfying and elegant, with the fine pasta layers giving a great texture. I've never managed to replicate it successfully!
We live in the area that's home to vincisgrassi, (which translates as 'winning fats', which in turn gives a clue as to why it's so tasty). Very much born out of thrift, it relies on the very finely chopped trimmings and leftovers from preparing duck, goose and maybe pork for other dishes and a dryish tomato based sauce. No bechamel. It's deliciousness comes from the myriad layers of wafer thin, hand made pasta. The sort that nonna steadily rolls out on a table top covered in an old cotton cloth. It's a real labour of love. Often put into a pizza or bread oven once the main cooking is over and left for a few hours. Luckily, available at local restaurants for those who don't have all day to prepare it.
I love lasagne and making it as retro as possible with garlic bread and a bottle of Chianti! I use Marcella Hazan's recipe. It takes a while, but I don't understand why, if you like cooking, you'd want to speed up the process and cheat. What else are you going to do?
Exactly! If you wanted a quicker pasta dish you wouldn't make lasagne. Never made Marcella's version but I bet it's good and Chianti is the perfect pairing!
Best book for a lasagne recipe - Italian Food by Elizabeth David. I bought the book in 1969 and still cook from it. I tweak the recipe slightly depending on what is in the cupboard but it is always a success. Cheese sprinkled on top - no cheese sauce in the making for me. Mrs David books are still the best.
You know I looked at that when I was writing the piece and wondered how easy today's cook would find it to follow. Or whether they'd have the patience. "By the time it [the pasta] has been rolled and pulled about twelve times ..."! But her books are wonderful, yes!
My go-to version is in Giorgio Locatelli's "Made in Italy". I don't even need to go to the book anymore to make the ragu, I know it so well. If I want to change things up, the Prawn Lasagne in "Mezcla" by Ixta Belfrage is a fabulous thing (as is the Butternut Squash version in the same book)!
I also use the Josceline Dimbleby recipe ( from a Sainsbury’s cookery book since lost) but, like you, I have added to it over the years and it’s no longer the simple recipe it started off as. I love lasagne but now the children are all grown it’s a faff making it for two.
I love lasagne too, I agree it is a time-consuming business though to make it well. I have the pasta roller attachment for kitchen aid and do it with fresh pasta and it's delicious , once made I haven't gone back. I often do a massive one and we either eat it over a few days or freeze half of it. I think it's worth the effort and I sometimes do it over an afternoon while listening to a story on audible.
I think that's the right way to approach it. It's a project. Nice to have someone in the kitchen though to help if you can find a willing pair of hands.
Some people make Lasagne with ricotta cheese.Nice, but it is mock lasagne.The real stuff contains béchamel sauce ,mince with a bit of fat on it and red wine.One of life’s great pleasures.
I haven't made lasagne properly since lockdown. Did it then because we had the time, and also because my daughter and I were reminiscing about that time we went to Sicily together and went on a mission to find the best lasagne. Never mind the heat and never mind that Sicily perhaps not a lasgane region--we had fun. And we found some fantastic lasagne (also some horrors). Our lockdown lasagne was 100% from scratch, pasta and all. Took a few days. And it was amazing. I have never followed a recipe; I follow the method taught by an Italian friend years ago: ragu made from beef and pork and let it simmer, preferably starting 2 days before. Then I make a thin bechamel because it will dry in the oven, then make the pasta sheets and assemble. Oh, and good quality cheese grated on the bechamel. I like what Jenny said about the thickness--thin layers are what makes lasagne stand out and this was also something I learned from my Italian friend. Growing up in the US, lasagne often had a layer of ricotta with spinach instead of bechamel (and thick layers) but my Italian friend looked at me horrified when I mentioned that, so I stopped.
Fiona, I've just discovered you on Substack and love your Challenge - and lasagne. My husband @NickBoyd is the cook in our family (my role is mostly sous chef or KP) and although we haven't cooked lasagne for some time, we do have shelves of 'well-loved' cook books going back years which are a joy.
I love these Cook booked challenge articles Fiona. Felicity Cloake used to do a good review of old recipes in her Guardian Perfect series (which is also excellent)but it has contracted a bit – I do not think she has given quite as much typespace.
it is great when people revisit these all books which have so much to offer. these approaches to lasagne are great – though I am not at all sure about calf brain! do keep your series going Fiona, thanks
I have forgotten which recipe for lasagne I used when I first made it but I now follow the one in a little book called “food for friends” or “ cibo per gli amici” which was compiled a few years ago by the members of the twinning association between a town near Bologna called Sasso Marconi and Helston in Cornwall. (Nearby Poldhu was the base for Marconi’s experimental messages across the Atlantic to the U.S.). The majority of the recipes in the book were handed down by Marconi’s housekeeper Nonna Zelinda to her daughters-in-law and thence to members of the association who are all steeped in the culinary tradition of Emilia Romagna.
The recipe for ragù in the book is relatively simple, using equal amounts of beef and pork mince as well as the usual base of finely chopped vegetables, pancetta, wine and passata but no liver or such like. Nonetheless if I have a chicken liver or 2 lying around I tend to throw it in too. Then cook for about 2 hours without a lid to allow it to reduce.
But though it also gives recipes for making the pasta and béchamel sauce, it doesn’t actually tell you how to put them together. The lasagne I have eaten there is quite “solid” with many layers of meat and pasta but no discernible béchamel layers. I asked my host about this last time I was there and she said that they mix it into the ragù before assembling the dish. Personally I prefer it to be looser so I persist with my three separate meat/pasta/béchamel layers though I’m sure that the cooks of Sasso would have a fit if I ever inflicted it on them. (I have cooked for my host when I’ve been there but nothing local as I’m sure it couldn’t possibly come up to snuff).
I have also made it with Carta Di Musica which is a very thin bread from Sardegna. Lovely if you can find it and the fact that it breaks into pieces as you try to layer it makes no difference to the finished result.
I made the Taruschio’s vincisgrassi at Christmas and it did not disappoint. I've been cooking for my husband for 25 years and he said its in his top five. Must ask him what the other four are...
Lasagne is a labour of love to make properly - I like the fact that Nigella's recipe in Cook, Eat, Repeat is called 'Lasagne of Love'. The lasagne I hanker after was made by an Italian lady called Evalina, a friend of my family in Tuscany and a great cook - it had several layers of fine fresh pasta (she made her own) interspersed with just enough but not too much tasty ragu and was at once satisfying and elegant, with the fine pasta layers giving a great texture. I've never managed to replicate it successfully!
I'm sure it's to do with making it often enough. You probably need to make it once a month which would be fine with me ...
This sounds like the way vincisgrassi is made too.
We live in the area that's home to vincisgrassi, (which translates as 'winning fats', which in turn gives a clue as to why it's so tasty). Very much born out of thrift, it relies on the very finely chopped trimmings and leftovers from preparing duck, goose and maybe pork for other dishes and a dryish tomato based sauce. No bechamel. It's deliciousness comes from the myriad layers of wafer thin, hand made pasta. The sort that nonna steadily rolls out on a table top covered in an old cotton cloth. It's a real labour of love. Often put into a pizza or bread oven once the main cooking is over and left for a few hours. Luckily, available at local restaurants for those who don't have all day to prepare it.
Oh thanks for that background Lucy. Never knew!
I love lasagne and making it as retro as possible with garlic bread and a bottle of Chianti! I use Marcella Hazan's recipe. It takes a while, but I don't understand why, if you like cooking, you'd want to speed up the process and cheat. What else are you going to do?
Exactly! If you wanted a quicker pasta dish you wouldn't make lasagne. Never made Marcella's version but I bet it's good and Chianti is the perfect pairing!
Best book for a lasagne recipe - Italian Food by Elizabeth David. I bought the book in 1969 and still cook from it. I tweak the recipe slightly depending on what is in the cupboard but it is always a success. Cheese sprinkled on top - no cheese sauce in the making for me. Mrs David books are still the best.
You know I looked at that when I was writing the piece and wondered how easy today's cook would find it to follow. Or whether they'd have the patience. "By the time it [the pasta] has been rolled and pulled about twelve times ..."! But her books are wonderful, yes!
My go-to version is in Giorgio Locatelli's "Made in Italy". I don't even need to go to the book anymore to make the ragu, I know it so well. If I want to change things up, the Prawn Lasagne in "Mezcla" by Ixta Belfrage is a fabulous thing (as is the Butternut Squash version in the same book)!
OMG that prawn lasagne is SO good! I've never made it but ordered it once on Dishpatch
Lasagne is one of my favourite dishes to cook and we eat it regularly.
As a vegetarian I replace the meat with chopped mushrooms and tend to use fresh pasta sheets which I prefer over dry.
Another alternative is the spinach and ricotta version, which is super quick and easy to make.
That is good but I actually have a weakness for having that as a pancake stuffing1
I also use the Josceline Dimbleby recipe ( from a Sainsbury’s cookery book since lost) but, like you, I have added to it over the years and it’s no longer the simple recipe it started off as. I love lasagne but now the children are all grown it’s a faff making it for two.
I know. Sad isn't it? I guess we all have to keep it for when the children - what children?! - come home ...
I love lasagne too, I agree it is a time-consuming business though to make it well. I have the pasta roller attachment for kitchen aid and do it with fresh pasta and it's delicious , once made I haven't gone back. I often do a massive one and we either eat it over a few days or freeze half of it. I think it's worth the effort and I sometimes do it over an afternoon while listening to a story on audible.
I think that's the right way to approach it. It's a project. Nice to have someone in the kitchen though to help if you can find a willing pair of hands.
Some people make Lasagne with ricotta cheese.Nice, but it is mock lasagne.The real stuff contains béchamel sauce ,mince with a bit of fat on it and red wine.One of life’s great pleasures.
Definitely like mince with a bit of fat on it. Adds flavour AND texture
I haven't made lasagne properly since lockdown. Did it then because we had the time, and also because my daughter and I were reminiscing about that time we went to Sicily together and went on a mission to find the best lasagne. Never mind the heat and never mind that Sicily perhaps not a lasgane region--we had fun. And we found some fantastic lasagne (also some horrors). Our lockdown lasagne was 100% from scratch, pasta and all. Took a few days. And it was amazing. I have never followed a recipe; I follow the method taught by an Italian friend years ago: ragu made from beef and pork and let it simmer, preferably starting 2 days before. Then I make a thin bechamel because it will dry in the oven, then make the pasta sheets and assemble. Oh, and good quality cheese grated on the bechamel. I like what Jenny said about the thickness--thin layers are what makes lasagne stand out and this was also something I learned from my Italian friend. Growing up in the US, lasagne often had a layer of ricotta with spinach instead of bechamel (and thick layers) but my Italian friend looked at me horrified when I mentioned that, so I stopped.
The things we did during lockdown! But making sublime lasagne from scratch sounds like one of the better ones!
Fiona, I've just discovered you on Substack and love your Challenge - and lasagne. My husband @NickBoyd is the cook in our family (my role is mostly sous chef or KP) and although we haven't cooked lasagne for some time, we do have shelves of 'well-loved' cook books going back years which are a joy.
Good to hear from you and i do hope this month’s inspires you/him to have a go!
I love these Cook booked challenge articles Fiona. Felicity Cloake used to do a good review of old recipes in her Guardian Perfect series (which is also excellent)but it has contracted a bit – I do not think she has given quite as much typespace.
it is great when people revisit these all books which have so much to offer. these approaches to lasagne are great – though I am not at all sure about calf brain! do keep your series going Fiona, thanks
Thanks, Mark! They DO have a lot to offer but it's easy to forget about them. Hopefully the series will be an incentive for people to go back to them!
I have forgotten which recipe for lasagne I used when I first made it but I now follow the one in a little book called “food for friends” or “ cibo per gli amici” which was compiled a few years ago by the members of the twinning association between a town near Bologna called Sasso Marconi and Helston in Cornwall. (Nearby Poldhu was the base for Marconi’s experimental messages across the Atlantic to the U.S.). The majority of the recipes in the book were handed down by Marconi’s housekeeper Nonna Zelinda to her daughters-in-law and thence to members of the association who are all steeped in the culinary tradition of Emilia Romagna.
The recipe for ragù in the book is relatively simple, using equal amounts of beef and pork mince as well as the usual base of finely chopped vegetables, pancetta, wine and passata but no liver or such like. Nonetheless if I have a chicken liver or 2 lying around I tend to throw it in too. Then cook for about 2 hours without a lid to allow it to reduce.
But though it also gives recipes for making the pasta and béchamel sauce, it doesn’t actually tell you how to put them together. The lasagne I have eaten there is quite “solid” with many layers of meat and pasta but no discernible béchamel layers. I asked my host about this last time I was there and she said that they mix it into the ragù before assembling the dish. Personally I prefer it to be looser so I persist with my three separate meat/pasta/béchamel layers though I’m sure that the cooks of Sasso would have a fit if I ever inflicted it on them. (I have cooked for my host when I’ve been there but nothing local as I’m sure it couldn’t possibly come up to snuff).
I have also made it with Carta Di Musica which is a very thin bread from Sardegna. Lovely if you can find it and the fact that it breaks into pieces as you try to layer it makes no difference to the finished result.
Oh that's a great idea - the carta di musica one. And you can't go wrong with a recipe from a nonna!
Marcella Hazan every single time but deviating from the usual vincisgrassi by Rachel Roddy is very good and avoids hideous truffles.
Not sure I've ever seen hideous and truffles in the same sentence! Hideous because of taste or price? 😉
I do not particularly like the taste of travels and I think they are rather like Marmite - you either really like them or do not lie them at all
I made the Taruschio’s vincisgrassi at Christmas and it did not disappoint. I've been cooking for my husband for 25 years and he said its in his top five. Must ask him what the other four are...
Lucky husband! Do share what the other ones are when you find out!
Marcella Hazan’s recipe - always
OK! That’s pretty definitive then 😂