Postcard from Mexico City
The first 48 hours of the trip
As I said there’s no Friday 5 this week -or next as I’m away in Mexico but here’s your first post from the trip.
So where to start with Mexico City?
Well maybe in the Centro Historico which is where I’d decided to stay because of its proximity to the most famous sites. Good decision? I’ll let you know in my round-up at the end of the trip.
The main focus is the Plaza de la Constitucion known as the Zocalo, which is dominated by the cathedral and the Palacio Nacional. Not the most beautiful square in the world to be honest particularly at the moment with the Palacio Nacional is boarded up presumably because of the Day of the Dead celebrations but it’s always been at the centre of what is happening in the city.
We ticked off the vast ornate cathedral (above) and the Templo Mayor a brilliant museum and archaelogical site celebrating the pre-hispanic culture of the Mexican capital city of Tenochtitlan. Many of the most illuminating discoveries have been made in the last 40-50 years.
We also took in the Palacio de Bellas Artes which is more impressive as a building than a gallery apart from a spectacular display of murals from Diego Rivera and his contemporaries. (See top of this post.) Mexican museums and galleries generously give free entrance to oldies which is a bit of a bonus.
The next day we managed to negotiate the subway out to the main flower market which is the biggest and most extraordinary one I’ve ever seen. The stop at Jamaica (pronounced ha-mai-ka) lands you slap in the middle of the food market. Just find someone to point you in the direction of the flowers.
Every stall is stacked with bright orange cempasúchil or marigolds, the commemorative flower of the Dia de Los Muertos or Day of the Dead.
Even two days ahead families were staggering down the narrow aisles carrying huge armfuls of flowers. Most are sold loose from the stalls but there are a few giant displays which you’ll see all over the city in the run-up to DOTD.
We’re leaving our serious eating to Oaxaca next week but managed to fit in a visit to a great taqueria and restaurant in the Condesa neighbourhood thanks to Henrietta Lovell of Rare Tea Co who is now living here with her husband Richard Hart who is opening a bakery in the city.